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L'Escala lies at the southern end of the Gulf of Roses, on the Costa Brava, between the Empordà plain and the Montgrí massif. It was a fishing and fish-salting village, and you can still see that heritage: its anchovies are famous throughout Catalonia, and the old salt warehouse, the Alfolí, still stands by the sea.
Empúries is just a short walk from the town. This is where the Greeks founded a city in the 6th century BC, later occupied by the Romans. For this guide, we’ve chosen six places to stay one by one: three small hotels, a bed & breakfast and two family homes.
How to choose an area
The town is compact, but each area has its own pace:
- Old town: seafaring streets, Platja de les Barques, the town beach and most of the bars and restaurants.
- Riells: south of the centre, with a wide sandy beach, houses, apartments and coves nearby.
- Empúries and Sant Martí: to the north, close to the ruins and beaches among the pine trees, with less activity and services spread further apart.
- Cala Montgó: a deep bay at the foot of Montgrí, outside the town centre.
For a weekend without moving the car, the old town is the most convenient choice. For a week with children, Riells offers more space and parking. The L'Escala page lists all the places we’ve selected in the town.
Where to stay in L'Escala
Here are the six places we recommend, from the old town to the garden homes in Riells.
Taverna de la Sal Boutique Hotel
A three-star adults-only hotel seventy metres from Platja de les Barques, with its own restaurant and rooms with sea-view balconies. It’s made for a couple’s getaway with everything within walking distance. If you’re arriving by car, the nearest parking is paid and must be reserved.
Jardi de Pedra
Another adults-only hotel, eighty metres from the town beach, with soundproofed rooms and a continental breakfast. Choose between a balcony or a room with a patio and terrace. Note the timings: reception for arrivals closes at 18:00, so it’s best to let them know when you expect to arrive.
Hotel L'Escala Centre
A straightforward two-star hotel right in the centre, with soundproofed rooms and a duplex suite with a terrace and sea views. There’s a cove 150 metres away, and good options nearby for cycling, windsurfing or diving. There’s no parking, and arriving after 21:00 incurs an extra charge.
Solo Atico Guest Suites
Just two rooms for adults, both with a terrace and sea views, plus a seasonal outdoor pool. Riells is 250 metres away and Cala del Bol Roig is 600 metres away. The minimum stay is one week, and the free parking must be reserved.
Casa Sebastian
A house fifty metres from Riells beach, with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a garden, barbecue and bikes included. The private parking doesn’t need to be reserved, which is very useful in August. It’s rented by the week, and the upper floors are only accessible by stairs.
Villashim
An entire villa for five people, with a private pool, garden and terrace, three hundred metres from Riells. Pets are welcome at no extra cost, and there’s free parking. It’s a place to relax, not to party: quiet hours start at 23:00.
What to see in L'Escala
The must-see is the archaeological site of Empúries, the only site on the peninsula where a Greek city and a Roman one coexist. You can walk there from the centre along the seafront promenade and, from June to September, it’s open every day. Several times a year, costumed tours bring the Roman city to life.
Next to the ruins is Sant Martí d'Empúries, a walled village with a square full of outdoor cafés. In L'Escala’s old town, it’s worth visiting the Museu de l'Anxova i de la Sal, which tells the story of the fish-salting trade, and the Alfolí, the salt warehouse dating from 1697. To the south, the coastal path links Riells with Cala Montgó and the Montgrí.
Trips nearby
By car, you can easily reach the Aiguamolls de l'Empordà, the Medes Islands from L'Estartit and the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres. Girona is less than an hour away.
When to visit L'Escala
July and August are the busiest months; in June and September the sea is warm and the town is quieter. In mid-September, on the third weekend of the month, the Festa de la Sal recreates the lives of fishermen and salt workers from a century ago, with lateen-sailed boats, music and dancing; it draws more than ten thousand people.
In early October, on a Sunday, the Festa de l'Anxova takes place: a public tasting at La Riba, habanera singing on the beach and an anchovy tapas trail through the town’s bars. In winter, it’s very quiet and some businesses close.
Getting there and getting around
L'Escala has no train station: the nearest stations, Sant Miquel de Fluvià and Camallera, are about 13 kilometres away. If you’re travelling without a car, the easiest option is the direct bus run by Moventis Sarfa from Barcelona, which terminates in the town. The nearest airport is Girona.
By car, take the AP-7 and then the C-31 towards the coast. Once in town, you can get around the centre, Riells and Empúries on foot or by bike.
L'Escala is one of the stops in our guide to where to stay in Catalonia. Nearby to the south is where to stay in Begur, and on the other side of the Gulf of Roses, where to stay in Roses. Further south, find where to stay in Tossa de Mar, and if you’re combining the beach with a city break, where to stay in Barcelona or, on the Costa Daurada, where to stay in Cambrils.
Frequently asked questions
Answers to the questions we hear most often from people planning a few days in L'Escala.
What’s the best area to stay in L'Escala?
It depends on how you’re travelling. The old town is the best base for a couple or a short break: you can reach the town beaches, restaurants and the promenade to Empúries without taking the car. Riells, to the south, is better for families and week-long stays, with houses that have gardens and parking beside a wide sandy beach. The Empúries and Cala Montgó area is quieter, but you’ll rely more on a car.
Can you walk from L'Escala to the ruins of Empúries?
Yes. A seafront promenade from the old town leads to the archaeological site of Empúries, with its Greek and Roman cities, and to the walled village of Sant Martí d'Empúries. It’s a flat route, with beaches among pine trees along the way. The site is open every day from June to September, so you can go early or in the late afternoon to avoid the heat.
Is L'Escala a good place to visit with children?
Yes, especially if you stay in Riells, where there are houses with gardens and a wide sandy beach. Bear in mind that several of the small hotels in the centre are adults-only, so families should look at holiday homes or villas. Children love the costumed tours organised by the Empúries museum at certain times of year, and you can get around the whole town by bike.
How do you get to L'Escala without a car?
The town has no train station; the nearest ones are Sant Miquel de Fluvià and Camallera, about 13 kilometres away, so you’ll need a taxi or transfer from there. The easiest option is the direct Moventis Sarfa bus from Barcelona, which goes all the way to L'Escala. The nearest airport is Girona. Once there, you can get around on foot or by bike.
When is the best time to visit L'Escala?
June and September offer the best balance: the sea is warm and there are fewer people than in July and August. The Festa de la Sal takes place on the third weekend of September, with lateen-sailed boats and demonstrations of traditional maritime trades. In early October, on a Sunday, the Festa de l'Anxova features a public tasting and a tapas trail. It’s quiet in winter.
